Choosing the Best lead and Collar For Your Dog

By November 12, 2018 No Comments

Choosing the Best Lead and Collar for Your Puppy or Adult Dog

What Choices Do You Have:
Imagine the lead and collar is an aerial to your dog, sending constant messages to your puppy or adult dog.

Well, that is exactly what your leads and collars do.

It should not just be used for taking the dog for a walk. In fact, it is one of the most important aids for training dogs of at any age.

Therefore, is important that you choose wisely.

Many leads are made by manufacturers with just an eye to profit, rather than being user-friendly and the right length.

I find that most of the leads sold on the market are far too short.

The average is 3 foot long when it should be at least 5.6 feet long, and be of a material that is easily washed and is kind to the hands and to the dog.

Why would they produce leads only 3ft long? Simple, to save on material and cost. The clips and rings are normally not made in the UK, and often rust, break and the leads fray.

The right choice of lead and collar is critical for all types of training requirements from walking to heel to sit stay, jumping up and the off command  All training should be started on the lead.

Extendable Leads:
The choice of lead you start with can have an effect on your dog for the remainder of their lives. Let me give an example, you choose an extendable lead and what do you get? Firstly you get a dog that pulls on the lead because the extendable lead teaches them that very quickly.

Secondly, you get a lead that is potentially dangerous to dogs, yourself and other people., and thirdly you get a dog that is effectively out of control.

The dog runs around you and the cord on the lead wraps around your leg. The dog keeps running and you can get a very serious friction burn that can go down to the bone. This can happen to you or to other people if your dog runs around them.

I have known dogs that have had a leg amputated because the lead wrapped around their own leg and when the friction started then ran faster to try and get away from it. causing deep burns. people with injuries like broken legs and arms from tripping over them. My personal belief is they are a menace and you should have special insurance to use one. If I could I would ban them.

Halti’s and Harnesses:
I see many dogs with a Halti or a Harness. Why? Does the dog like them? I think you will find the answer is a resounding NO!

In the case of head restraints like the Halti, They pull down the head so the chin comes down to the chest when the dog pulls.

Try it? pull your chin down on your chest and see how it feels. Can you breathe? Do you feel comfortable?

They also tighten around the muzzle at the most sensitive part of a dog.

Many dogs have hair rubbed down to the skin, blisters and abrasions and infections where they have ridden up and rubbed against the eyes. And these are supposed to be the kind alternative?

Harnesses compress the chest and the lungs, and tighten under the armpits of the front legs, nipping the sensitive skin under what would be our armpits. They also change the centre of balance and causes the dog to be pulled slightly sideways.

You can always tell if a so-called “Training Aid” works by pain and discomfort. Simply take it off and put on a normal lead and collar. if the dog still pulls then you know that is works by hurting your dog, therefore the words Training Aids are actually incorrect.  they do not train anything,  they just cause pain, discomfort and ultimately resentment.

I am sure that is not what you wanted for your dog. Perhaps you were not aware of how they work. They do not work by magic and are not manufactured by Harry Potter.

Starting Early: 
I teach a method, which actually trains the dog to walk to heel, rather than just impedes and hurts it. Dog’s even as a puppy can be taken off the lead and it should walk next to you once you have trained it properly. (But never when there is traffic or near roads) Many thousands of dogs and their owners have benefited from my training methods which are simple and easy to follow. Plus I have a DVD that shows my methods clearly working with dogs that I have never worked with before.

Choosing The Right Lead: 
I made the decision to manufacture my own leads to my exacting standards quite simply because I could not buy a good lead or collar in the shops

All my leads and collars are made of an amazing material called cushion web.

My lead material and the clips and rings are all made in the UK.

The leads are very soft on the hands and it does not cut into the fingers or burn your hand if you drag your hand down it.

The length is 5ft 8.5 inches long and they can be clipped by means of the O-ring to go down to half that length.

That makes these leads very versatile, for instance, you can half the length if you want to hold the lead one-handed. Especially handy if you have shopping or a pram etc

I have also made a lead that is only 12 inches long that is a great house or outside lead and is very useful for the larger dog. Labrador and above. I also use it as the last lead I leave on when training recall with a junior or adult dog. See my article Recall Training Dogs. Which comes up 1st in any Google search.

My standard leads and collars come in matching colours. Orange, Purple, Green, Pink,  Blue, Red, and Black.  I have added a thinner lead and collar similar to my classic standard leads that are mainly for smaller dogs so they can enjoy these totally British made leads and collars.

My standard leads and collars are 24mm wide and the thinner lighter ones are 19mm. That would be approximately 1 inch for the standards and 3/4 of an inch for the thinner ones. all are 5.8 inches long.

New Leads:
I have also added a special edition red white and blue lead and my own brand of slip and rope leads. Including an ultra skinny one. which I use all the time as they will even fit in a purse. I can slip four of them in one pocket.

It is not only the colours or the material that makes them so good for training everything from the sit stay to walking to heel. It is the length that is vital. Most leads are three or four feet long and are not versatile enough for all breeds. Because the of the length I manufacture it makes initial training far easier. Once you have trained the dog you can switch to a slip lead which I have now started to sell.

Collars made out of spacial tactile webUnfortunately, it is very difficult to train walking to heel with a rope slip lead. You need a good training lead initially.

and of course, I sell matching collars for my normal leads shown above that are soft and gentle on your dog’s neck.

These collars are about an inch wide that is so the spread and pressure and energy over a wider area if the dog lunges or pulls. If it is thin then it acts like a garrott and can damage the nerves and the cartilage in the neck. Once you have trained the dog not to pull or lunge then you can use the thin collars or slip leads but not before.

I also sell a very short lead for larger dogs and for leaving on whilst training dogs to recall.

I also sell a 25-foot recall training lead in quality canvas webbing, with leather foot stops every three feet along the lead, to stop it slipping under your feet whilst training recall.

These leads are not meant to be held though they do have a quality soft feel handle. They are there to be dragged behind the dog and teaches recall by standing on the lead and blowing a recall whistle at the same time.

Given time, this sets the brain of the dog to believe it is the whistle that is stopping it not the lead as you are not holding it. This is how gundog trainers, train the dogs not to run after pheasants, rabbits or any animal or bird without permission until you give the release command.

With the right tools and guidance, training can become very easy. However, it is worth remembering that the lead and collar is your greatest training aid.